For all its other charms, the physical setting of Lake Rotoroa Lodge is the most striking feature. The beech forests of Nelson Lakes National Park start on the eastern side of the front lawn, while the southern edge is bounded by the quiet force of the Gowan River. But the dominant feature is the lake itself, permanently framed by the lodge windows as its waters stretch southward in the shadow of the towering Travers Range. When the evening sun strikes the peaks, and the lake reflects the pink snow and orange cliffs, I doubt there is a more beautiful view anywhere.

I forget exactly when the lodge was built, but it retains the air of the grand old guest houses of early last century. Despite numerous renovations to provide visitors with the latest comforts, the feel of an old world fishing lodge persists in the warm timbers, high ceilings, open fire places and wrought iron bed-heads.

Managers Brent and Sharleen wince at the term ‘exclusive’, but it is hard to describe the lodge otherwise. This operation is at the five star end of the fly fishing market, and from a sumptuous breakfast at the start of the day to the offer of a drink the moment you arrive back tired and dripping in the evening, the hospitality never ceases. Often it’s the little things that stand out—the wet gear you forgot to hang up that miraculously reappears in your room, dry and folded; or someone passing you a coffee in the morning before you even get a chance to ask.

Exclusive? Yes. Stuffy or pretentious? Definitely not. This is a fishing lodge, not the Ritz. A jacket and tie is more out of place at the bar than shorts and poly-props. Expect the guides to join you for a beer, and Brent or Sharleen to join you for dinner.

Speaking of guides, the lodge guides are true professionals. I have now fished extensively with two of them, Craig Simpson and Peter Flintoft. While my ego would prefer otherwise, there’s no doubt that I always do better with Craig or Peter than I could hope to on my own. Not to mention the things I learn, and the places I am taken to. I have not fished with the other guides, but it is clear from many evening conversations with delighted guests including some raw beginners, just how good these guys are. The fishing in the area (there are 26 rivers nearby) is such that more experienced anglers can expect to catch trout on their own. However to get the best from the fishery, expert or not, a guide is essential.

The fishery itself is focussed on river fishing for sighted brown trout. Extremely clear freestone streams, ranging from Thredbo/Howqua size up, are the usual destination. Most flow through farmland or beech forest, surrounded by mountains. The season (October to April) is long and consistent—I’ve had very good sport at either end. The climate is surprisingly mild, probably because of the extensive ranges that form a buffer from both east coast and west coast weather. The wind is much gentler than further south, but with an annual rainfall up to 2000 mm, expect to encounter some rain during your visit. Such is the water clarity, trout can still be spotted in the rain. In fact both my best fishing sessions out of the lodge were when it was teeming down—I suspect the trout feed more actively in anticipation of the rising water dislodging nymphs.

The browns are big, wild fish; typically 3 to 6 pounds. Ten pound plus fish are possible (and regularly caught by lodge guests), but these trout must usually be pursued at the expense of easy fishing. Double figure browns are most common in rivers where overall trout numbers are low, and of course they didn’t get big by being easy to catch!

For non-fishing partners, the lodge has plenty to offer, including horse-riding and winery tours. Being right on the edge of the national park, the wildlife-watching, lake cruises and bush walking begin outside the front door.

The lodge is located at the north end of the South Island, about an hour’s drive south of Nelson. Australian travellers can fly direct to Christchurch, Wellington, or Auckland, and from each of these airports there are regular internal flights to Nelson. Pick-ups from the airport can be arranged. An alternative for more experienced anglers is to hire a car in Christchurch and drive to the lodge (about 3.5 hours), breaking the journey with some fishing on one of the many fine rivers either side of the Lewis Pass.

However you get there, it is hard to think of a place that promises a more enjoyable fly fishing escape than Lake Rotoroa Lodge. For more information phone 64 3 523 9121, or visit www.lakerotoroalodge.com