About to spend some hard earned dollars on the
ultimate fly fishing escape?
Rob Sloane uncovers some of the pitfalls

Having fished Australia and New Zealand from top to bottom and patiently listened to and read countless trip reports, both good and bad, I can talk with some authority when it comes to guided fishing. Most importantly, over the last decade or so, guided fishing in this part of the world has become far more professional and sophisticated in response no doubt to increased demand and higher expectations.

To some the fully guided fishing package may still seem outrageously expensive, but when you consider the cost of car hire, petrol, meals, accommodation, boat hire, fishing gear etc, in remote or unfamiliar places, it is invariably a cost effective option in terms of fish caught for time spent. More and more people, especially hard-working city professionals, are doing the maths and making the most of their precious days off.

BUYER BEWARE
There are as many as 100 travel related advertisements in FlyLife each issue, all vying for an ever increasing number of travelling fly fishers. From a publisher’s point of view, advertised services in this or any other publication for that matter do not carry any inherent endorsement. The advertiser pays for the placement and supplies the images, words and details. The role of the publication is to make the initial contact between potential client and service provider. From this point on it’s up to the client to assess the suitability of the operator based on the subsequent exchange of information, pricing and any other relevant research.

It would be nice to apply some form of official ‘star’ rating across the fly fishing industry, indicating the level of service and facilities. However, although well intended, most industry accreditations and associated memberships confer little more than basic requirements for licences, insurance, first aid and safety standards. This may be reassuring in itself, but it is still not an insight into the level of service, attention to detail and the temperament, experience and personality of the guide.

Readers often express surprise at the disparity in prices charged for guiding and accommodation even within the same district or fishery. What they fail to appreciate are the vast differences in terms of experience, equipment, transport and the standard of food and accommodation on offer. In general, you get what you pay for, with a few welcome exceptions if you are lucky. Price is generally driven by the standard of service being delivered—bunk beds in a fishing shack versus a fully serviced lodge room with private facilities for example; or fishing from a rusty old tinnie versus a state of the art, purpose-built fly fishing platform.

Price may also reflect the low and high season in terms of fishing success and the experience and knowledge of the guide—an enthusiastic beginner-guide will not be able to demand the same fees as an experienced operator who has lots of repeat business and is in strong demand.

Affordable price is understandably a key motivation in booking a particular holiday. Just don’t compromise too much on price or you may end up sharing the back seat of a Torana with the family pet, eating at the nearest truck-stop and sleeping between second-hand sheets. If cost is a major factor, cut the number of days not the quality of the service.

NO HONEYMOON
For a bunch of fishing-club mates on holiday, it can be like an end of season footy trip. The cheaper the better. No problem sleeping in bunks four to a room, sharing a long drop, drinking warm beer and eating cold pies. But for a fishing couple on a tropical honeymoon, you can imagine the disappointment when their ‘romantic’ retreat turns out to have single beds, a bathroom shared between ten rooms and no fridge, power points or air conditioning!

The trick is to do the research and try to read between the lines. Even so, we all get caught sooner or later and have to put it down to experience. Fortunately the disaster trips are often the most memorable if you have even a half decent sense of humour. On one particular trip with a fellow writer we ended up staying at a ‘bach’ with a bunch of kids and an obese dog that spent all day on our sleeping bags. Suspicious about the unnatural algal growth in the shower base, we debated at length whether or not to shower with our wading boots on, before both agreeing not to shower at all!

Invariably in a preplanned itinerary some things fail to live up to expectations and others can greatly exceed them. I remember first arriving at Whare Kea Lodge on the shores of Lake Wanaka expecting it to be a farm-stay or rustic B&B. It turned out to be one of the most sophisticated places I’ve visited.

WEIRD MOB
Guides do tend to be a weird mob. Many are fishing nuts who have ended up guiding by default; others are true professionals, in some cases (the Sprys for example) spanning more than one generation.

Most guides have horror client stories and most clients have horror guide stories. Maybe you like guides who tell jokes all day, talk politics or tell you how great they are; or perhaps you prefer the instructional type and want to learn everything about flies, knots and rigs. Then there’s the amateur naturalist who can identify the bugs and do all the bird calls; or the school-master type who tells you off for doing everything wrong. Or maybe you just like the strong, silent type who puts you in front of a lot of fish. Personally I prefer the latter, but I am not necessarily ‘normal’ when it comes to catching fish.

I know from experience that there are few if any genuinely bad operators selling themselves as dedicated fly fishing guides. The problems begin when the wrong client is matched with the wrong operator. Only you can judge the standards you require, and your budget. Guides do tend to specialise, so it’s important to match expectations to someone capable of delivering that service.

SHOULD THE GUIDE FISH?
In my view pro guides should not fish while a client is paying for their time, but having said that I personally enjoy fishing with guides rather than strictly being guided. Some guides of long standing have operated successfully on a ‘fish with the client’ basis and continue to attract repeat business, although you would not expect to pay as much if the guide gets to share the fishing. The important thing is to know the score before paying the deposit. So ask the question.

The client should be the one setting the rules in this instance. On a recent trip to Weipa, Mark Weigall and I had a great day out on tuna with one of Alan Philliskirk’s off-siders. Obviously under instructions not to fish under any circumstances we had to cajole him into picking up a rod to complete a triple hook up. Twisting his arm was half the fun, and as soon as he hooked up we really gave him a hard time about the do’s and don’ts of guiding!

On the water the most important thing is communication. Communicate with the guide at all times to avoid misunderstandings. If you don’t want to fish blind, or troll flies, or fish sinking lines, then say so up front. A good guide will establish the client’s level of knowledge and skill and act accordingly.

HOMEWORK
Many of the pitfalls can be avoided by doing your homework beforehand. Credentials can be readily established through a little judicious research and correspondence. Brochures, newsletters and web sites, as well as answering many questions about facilities and fishing expectations, should give you some immediate clues about standards and professionalism. From there it is just a matter of asking relevant questions to match personal expectations and requirements, especially if you have any particular pet hates.

If you like a hot bath, ask if they have one. If you expect dancing girls, check if they are included in the fee. You may think I jest, but a good mate of mine refused to get on board a game boat in Thailand because of the unwelcome girls that had apparently been provided for his personal entertainment. This sort of misunderstanding can be very embarrassing.

Maybe you can’t live without television, or you need phone communication or an Internet connection. It’s a holiday for Christsake, but if that’s what you want, make sure you ask beforehand.

On a personal note I normally carry some tea, just in case they’ve never heard of it. Maybe you hate eating fish, or like Cuban cigars, have a cocaine addiction or an allergy to the local beer. My advice is not to leave anything important to chance . . . sort it out beforehand.

The same goes for the fishing. Find out as much as you can and make sure your preferences are clearly understood. If you are on a lifelong mission to catch the only brook trout ever liberated in Purrumbete, then make sure the guide understands this before you turn up.

If you are still unsure, try to contact someone who has done the trip before. Perhaps the guide will refer you to a regular client, otherwise internet forums like the FlyLife one can be a good place to field relevant questions. Invariably there is someone not too far away who can provide an unbiased report. Reputable fishing-based travel companies can save a lot of this pain. They can vouch for the operator from first hand experience and can put you in touch with others who have done the trip.

PLAN B
The best laid plans in fishing are invariably affected by weather, so it’s wise to be flexible. It is important to know what you want, but equally important to listen to the guide’s advice. Circumstances on the day may just not suit the style of fishing you prefer, but the guide may suggest a more productive alternative. If so, give it a go.

On a recent New Caledonian trip we insisted on fishing for bonefish no matter what the circumstances and dismissed other species when given the option. Towards the end of the trip we realised that during parts of the day when the tide and clouds made the bones impossible we could have been catching huge Spanish mackerel and GT’s off shore. Next time we will take the guide’s advice and be a bit more flexible—flats fishing really is very tide and weather dependent and the locals know a lot more about it than a bunch of southern trout fishermen.

BANANA BOATS
Boat based fishing is becoming synonymous with high quality guiding operations in salt water and on inland waterways these days. Wherever boat based transport and/or fly fishing are involved, the standard of equipment is paramount to an enjoyable experience. Hopefully you’ll find a photo or two on the relevant brochure or web site. If not, ask about the size and type of vessels being used. These days a good fly fishing boat will be set up with casting platform, electric motor or push pole, and drogue. There’s no point chasing tuna or sailfish if the boat has no suitable casting space, or loch-style fishing for trout if there is no way of manoeuvring the boat and slowing the drift.

With mothership operations in the salt water the standard of the fishing- tenders is particularly important because you’ll be casting from them all day and need a clear deck or casting platform free of line-snagging obstructions. Two way radio contact is also a consideration.

If you are sleeping on board a game boat or mothership, check out the facilities in terms of beds, air conditioning, shower and toilet. This may seem silly but if you are happy to squat on a bucket on board a boat with a bunch of fly fishing refugees then you are welcome to it. If you don’t ask you may get an unpleasant surprise. I spent several sleepless nights awash on the back deck of a charter boat on one memorable excursion, so I learnt the hard way.

If you are into serious fly fishing then make every effort to avoid sharing a guide or boat space with others wanting to cast lures or baits. Trust me, this just doesn’t work. Seek out dedicated fly-only guides and fly-only charter trips if you want to be safe. Flies and lures generally demand completely different water, tides, times, places and boat positioning.

I can’t think of anything more frustrating than having a prime fish skull-dragged on a lure before (or after) you have had a chance to put a fly through the water.

By the way, leave anything that even looks like a banana behind—they are said to bring bad luck at sea.

FINAL TIPS
Outside American fishing circles tipping is generally not expected but is quite common if the fishing and guiding has been exceptional. I like the idea of tipping based on merit, not as a matter of course. At a South American lodge we visited the daily amount suggested as a tip for house staff was printed on a note on the bedside table. More of an extra cost than a genuine tip.

All the variables I have mentioned make it difficult to rank, rate or recommend particular guides, lodges or charters. Ultimately the success of the trip will rest or fall on personalities, weather conditions and the respective skills of client and guide. Like the vast majority of clients, many guides are learning too, especially at the fly fishing frontiers in the tropical north. Many have never experienced guided fishing themselves and don’t really understand what might be expected. Advice and feedback, including constructive criticism, from a well travelled client may really help their future business.

Most importantly, when travelling, soak up a bit of local flavour and go with the flow. In Chile I was encouraged to drink tea out of a contraption that looked like a bong. In New Caledonia I developed an allergy to UB40. In Weipa I boated ten pound tuna in less time than I normally take to land a one pound trout. In the North Island of New Zealand I fished shoulder to shoulder with a bunch of tattoo-faced strangers in a ‘picket fence’; and in the South Island I needed a blood transfusion after feeding the local sand flies. Hey, it’s all good fun, all part of the experience, all part of the reason we travel and enjoy the diverse and fascinating world of fly fishing.